Understanding the PH of your hair, so that you can use moisture for your benefit!

I had to rethink exactly what I am doing as a natural, after chasing products and seeking longer lengths, my satisfaction has come from having healthy hair. I am finally really happy with my hair. I have decided to take care of my hair from the inside out, but first I want to truly understand my hair.

We all know the basic makeup of the hair shaft. But do we know how these components come into play with keeping the hair healthy? The Hair is made up of the Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla. The Cortex and Medulla are protected by the Cortex. Once the Cuticle is damaged it can no longer protect the Cortex and a damaged Cortex cannot be repaired. So let’s focus on the cuticle and understanding how it works and what we can do to keep it protected.

  

Sweat carries an oil that drips from your body to moisturize and protect the skin, this is the same oil that drips down your scalp to helps to moisturize and protect the hair.This oil is called Sebum.

Sebum is an oily secretion of the sebaceous glands. Sebum keeps hair and skin looking great.

With our curly, coily and kinky hair, It’s hard for the Sebum to go down the entire shaft. The sebum attempts to drip and make its way down the hair shaft, but it gets stuck in-between the curves of our curls.

So in order to keep our hair healthy, we have to use hair products that mimic the functionality of the body's natural moisturizer, sebum. Sebum is acidic, not alkaline.  

See more at:

black-hair-report.com

Why is It important to understand Acidic products versus Alkaline products?

Acidic products causes the Cuticle to close, Alkaline products open up the Cuticle.Potential of Hydrogen, or pH, is the measurement of how acidic or alkaline a substance is. It is judged on a scale between 0 and 14. Anything between 0 and 6.9 is acidic, 7 is neutral, and anything between 7.1 and 14 is alkaline. Human hair and scalp oil, sebum, has a pH balance of between 4.5 and 5.5. Showering with neutral water takes the hair to pH of 7.0, which is neutral. It takes the body twenty minutes to regain its proper pH level which is 4.5-5.5. 

This natural hair acidity prevents fungi and bacteria in the hair and scalp, and keeps the cuticle closed and healthy. Many of the hair products that people use disrupt the natural pH of the hair. A substance that is too alkaline will cause the hair cuticle to open, while a substance that is too acidic will cause the cuticle to contract.

In order to understand your products buy P.H. test strips. You can buy them online or a beauty supply store. I bought mine from the fish department in Wal-mart. Ok so let’s test your products. 

 Pour your liquid product into a glass, stick the test strip into the glass for the amount of time the strip directions indicate. Remove the strip and compare it to the diagram to find the pH of the product. Discontinue the use of any product outside of the 4 to 7 pH range.

So know that I understand this, how do I use this information?

When you hear someone say, deep condition your hair and sit under the dryer for 20 minutes, the heat is another element that helps to open the cuticle. When have found a good deep conditioner of your choice, sit under a dryer and allow the moisture to seep into the cortex, now this is how PH comes into play. Understanding that a more acidic product will close the cuticle, use an Apple cider mix or Aloe Vera mix (Both products are acidic) along with cold water to close and seal in the moisture. Cold water causes the cuticle to close.

Apple cider vinegar has a pH level of about 3. It should be diluted with water until it has a pH level of 4. Many people prefer aloe Vera gel because the vinegar smell is too strong. If you rinse your hair after using the natural acid, the water will deactivate the acid.

If you have curly hair, then your cuticle is already partially open. It is especially important for people with curly hair to return their hair to a slightly acidic pH level, since the open cuticle prevents natural acidic sebum to keep the entire hair at a pH level between 4.5 and 5.5.

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse:

1/3 of a cup (75 ml) of ACV into a quart (1 liter) of water. You can then store this mixture in a plastic bottle and keep it in the shower for ready use. Mix well with a spoon and use a pH test strip to ensure the pH is not under 4.5.

If you have very dry and damaged hair:

Pour 2 tbsp. (30 ml) of a silicone-free conditioner, 2 tbsp. (30 ml) of whole-leaf aloe Vera juice and 2 tsp. (10 ml) of jojoba oil into a bowl. Mix well with a spoon and use a pH test strip to ensure the pH is not under 4.5.

Apply the mixture to damp, washed hair, rinse and style as usual.

So let’s re-cap:

Water neutralizes hair, products that are above 7 are alkaline and causes the cuticle to open, products that are more acidic under 4.5 and cold water caused the cuticle to close, this should help you properly moisturize and keep moisture in the hair!

Healthy Hair Note:

Coloring your hair, uses products that are Alkaline based, by using a more acidic product after your color your hair will seal the color in and cause it to last longer

Black Face and Afros: Paying Homage or Insulting our Culture

I have always been a fan of Afros, since the days of Pam Grier as Foxy Brown. She was sassy, quick witted and sexy! Afro’s were always a prideful thing for me and represented beauty, and an indulgence of once heritage.

As we start the Halloween season, Pimp outfits and Foxy brown replicas complete with the wigs and white patent leather boots are the top sold costumes. Yesterday my husband and I went into the Halloween shop, and they had 8 different types of Afro wigs, and braided wigs. I chuckled at bit and thought, have the natural revolution transcended, even the Halloween market.  

 Wow everyone wants to cash in on the whole “Natural thing”.  As I walk through the isle to find, braided wigs with beads, Men’s Afros with side burns, a lump formed in my throat. There was a wig with hair pick in it with the prominent fist on it that signified pride. But do these outfit pay homage or are they insulting to a culture of struggle and pride. 

Recently, the news has been on fire because of the costumesa group of White Florida residences decided to wear. They were dressed as Trayvon Martin and Zimmerman. 

Florida-men-dressing-Trayvon-Martin-George-Zimmerman-Halloween

Caitlin Cimeno Posted the pix with a caption of “just for fun”. How can this tragedy be fun.

A group of girls tweeted themselves in “black face” and stated that they were going to be “n*ggas for Halloween.

what-is-wrong-with-this-picture

Julianna Hough was recently slammed for wearing Black face, Bantu Knots and a prison outfit.

 Julianne-Hough

So what is the fascination of dressing in Blackface? Is this Flattery or Mockery?

Blackface is a form of theatrical makeup used in minstrel shows, and later vaudeville, in which performers create a stereotyped caricature of a black person. The practice gained popularity during the 19th century and contributed to the proliferation of stereotypes such as the "happy-go-lucky darky on the plantation" or the "dandified coon".  In 1848, blackface minstrel shows were an American national art of the time, translating formal art such as opera into popular terms for a general audience. Early in the 20th century, blackface branched off from the minstrel show and became a form in its own right, until it ended in the United States with the U.S. Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s. 

Blackface  


These Black face depictions solidified stereotypes and were degrading and in the least  are very unflattering.
So as we prepare for the Halloween season, are we flattered to see Afros and side burns, or is it a blatant depiction of the stereo types that are placed on every culture?

Do we really accept our hair in its natural state: Twitter Bashes Blue Ivy’s hair.

Beyonce, known for her cutting edge style and incredible vocals, has been in the news for more than just her singing. Recently, slide remarks have been made concerning how Blue Ivy, her adorable daughter, has a striking resemblance to her father Jay Z, and even worse remarks concerning her hair.

 Bossip posted a slew of remarks that show such distaste for the child’s natural hair. Are these remarks suggestion that we don’t like natural hair? Many of the pictures depict the child wearing her naturally textured TWA, as well as recent pictures with her hair in wild twist. Many of the styles are reminiscent of some of the styles I see so many naturals wearing in my network. So what is the issue? If she had silky curly hair or straight hair would this be less of a problem, or is this an issue of wanting to see the child made up in stylish clothes and hair like her mother.  I can remember my mom always in disagreement with a parent that was dressed to impress and the child was dirty and mangled.  Many of the remarks have asked Beyonce to comb the child’s hair, or have asked,” why won’t do something to the child’s hair”. What are your thoughts are we really ready to see all woman wearing their natural hair in 4a, b and c, textures or are we    still caught up in Hollywood’s standards?

See Bossip's story:

Remarks on Blue's Hair

Wearing a Second day "wash n go" and keeping your bouncy curls.

 

I have decided to wear protective styling all winter and not wearing my hair out more than 2 days per week. This weekend I co-washed, and detangled my hair with Shea Moisture enhancing smoothie, Eco styling gel and glycerin. I allowed my hair to air dry and this is what my hair looked like.

 I decided that I wanted to get a second day out or theses curls. My hair dried into a bushy bunch of curls. And this is what they looked like.

I don’t really like the pineapple method, because it usually stretches my curls and I have waves the next day, and I am going for a curlier look. So, I tried the pineapple using a knee high stocking.  I decided to use the stocking because it allowed for the hair to be gathered very close to my head, and the loose curls were not stretched or flattened because they were on the top of my head. I then folded the ends under, and smoothed down the fronts for my styling in the morning, and then I covered it with a satin hair bonnet.

 

I got really big perfect hair. The back became a bit frizzy because my hair was not completely dry, when I do this again, I will sit under the dryer in low heat to get the hair completely dry.

 My hair the next morning held its shape and curl. I took olive oil and rubbed it into my hands and fluffed my hair back into the style. Here are my final results:

10 essential foods that help to grow you hair: Part 3-Zinc

As we explore key things to add to our diet to promote hair growth, it important to understand that eating healthy should be a lifestyle change that will promote growth in not just your hair but your health. Today I want to talk about Zinc.  

Zinc accelerates the renewal of the skin cells. Zinc creams are used for babies to soothe diaper rash and to heal cuts and wounds. Zinc has also proven effective in treating acne, a problem that affects especially adolescents, and zinc has been reported to have a positive effect on psoriasis and neurodermitis.

Oysters are rich in zinc, a lack of which can lead to hair loss (even in your eyelashes), as well as a dry, flaky scalp. Three ounces has a whopping 493% of your daily value. You can get some zinc through fortified cereals and whole grain breads, but oysters can boast a good level of protein too. "Remember, hair is about 97% protein,". Without enough protein, your body can't replace the hairs that you naturally shed every day and what you do make can be dry, brittle, or weak.

I am not an oyster fan but zinc can be found in Scallops, Spinach and Sesame Seeds.

Here is a link about zinc:

Zink

 Here is a great recipe that is high in Zinc:

Seared Sea Scallops Over Wilted Spinach

Sea scallops are quick and easy to cook, but like shrimp, you must be careful not to overcook them. Frozen sea scallops work well here (I used Trader Joe's Jumbo Sea Scallops). Defrost them overnight in the refrigerator, then very gently squeeze and pat them dry before cooking.

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 8 minutes

Total Time: 13 minutes

Ingredients:

• 2 tsp olive oil
• 1 pound sea scallops, patted dry
• Pinch salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup minced shallots
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 10 ounce bag baby spinach
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Preparation:

Heat oil on medium-high heat in large heavy skillet. Add scallops and cook undisturbed for 2 minutes per side.
Remove scallops and keep warm.
Add shallots and stir; add wine to deglaze the pan, scraping bits from the bottom, then add spinach. Cook for 2 minutes, until wilted. Add lemon juice.
Divide spinach among four plates and top with warm scallops.
Serves Four